Unless you're an aspiring Qing dynasty scholar, you won't need to see every last building and pagoda, but don't miss the spectacular covered hallway that follows the shore of the man-made lake, which was built to resemble the shape of a peach, the traditional symbol for longevity. The grounds are vast, and you could easily spend a day here, but you've come in the late afternoon when the crowds are thinning out and you can see the sun begin to make its creeping descent. This enormous complex of gardens, official buildings, and pagodas was commissioned in 1750 by the great fourth emperor of the Qing dynasty, Qianlong, but is probably best associated with the so-called "Dragon Lady", the Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908), a formidable royal concubine turned regent who essentially ruled China from 1861 until her death, making a big mess of it along the way. Which means, of course, that there may be a ninth wonder of the world yet to be unearthed. However, given mercury's toxicity-and, again, the lack of proper technology-the government has stopped excavation work in the area. And, indeed, recent soil testing confirms high levels of mercury in the soil around the tomb (which is the largest in the world at about 22 square miles). The official tomb is about a mile away from the warrior site, and writings from that time record it as having mountains of jade and rivers of mercury, atop which the emperor's body could float forevermore. But the emperor may have the last laugh: The terra-cotta warriors are in fact not part of his official tomb. They reported it to their local official, and no sooner could you say, "Sorry, Shi Huang," than the eighth wonder of the world was discovered. Shi Huang's secret remained just that until 1974, when three local farmers were digging a well and came across stone body parts. For more on the culture, you can check out the small Peranakan Museum next door.Ĭhina's first ruler, the great emperor Qin Shi Huang, not only began construction on the Great Wall, but he's also responsible for the terra-cotta warriors of Xi'an. Although it's Chinese in style and color, you'll note that at its center is a depiction of the Virgin Mary, though rendered as a Qing dynasty–era figure. If you ask, you'll even get to go upstairs to see a Peranakan Catholic altar. The restaurant's decor-which features artwork, objets d'art, and furniture from chef-owner Benjamin Seck's collection-is as colorful as the food. Just hope your meal ends with the addictive glutinous black rice porridge, which is gently sweet and pairs well with the longan tea that'll be served alongside it. Your menu at Peranakan restaurant True Blue might include simmered beef, gently seasoned with cardamom (a kind of Peranakan version of short ribs), or banana blossom salad with star fruit, or chicken stew with Indonesian black nuts. They developed their own language, a kind of Malay-Hokkien creole their own dress their own religion (a sort of Taoist Catholicism, if you can imagine such a thing) and their own cuisine, which married Chinese flavors and spices with the sugar and coconut of Malay cooking. It’s a sight both timeless and touching, a reminder-despite the motorbikes and hotels-of this area’s unshakable belief and age-old rituals.Īn ethnic group specific to this part of Asia-created by the mostly Hokkien Chinese merchants and traders who arrived here and married Malay women-the Peranakans flourished from the 15th through the early 20th centuries. As you descend the hill after spending an hour so exploring the temple, you’ll see a chain of young monks walking along with their begging bowls, accepting food from the penitent locals who line the streets early in the morning to receive a blessing.
Bring (or ask your guide to bring) a packet of food for you to give to one of the monks, who will receive it with a chant. At Wat Sri Soda, as across the region, this quest can manifest in spectacular ways-remember Jayavarman VII and his prolific temple-building?-but it is often done in a more quiet, quotidian fashion, such as donating an offering of food to one’s local temple. Even Thai men who aren’t active-duty monks try, in small ways, to “make merit” for themselves.
Each country in Asia has its own relationship to religion, of course, but it’s fair to say that the Thai relationship to Buddhism is unusually vivid.
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